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Made with a respect to You



    1.1 – I have a standard for old cars voltage in the network - about 13.9 V.  I put a «calcium battery ", which requires a higher voltage, as well I have fog lights and high-power car stereo. How can I increase the voltage on the network?

Install a regulator with high voltage control and with voltage regulation directly at the output of the generator 1702.3702-01 for VAZ2108 (09), 9111.3702 for VAZ -2110 and others, in accordance with the type of generator. Also, when using the vehicle with long pauses idling to provide the desired energy balance is recommended to increase the level of idling.

1.2 – I have constantly underestimated voltage of the vehicle network. Voltage, measured at the battery or at the alternator output is about 13 volts, and even less. Replacement of voltage regulators does not help.

It is necessary to measure the output voltage of the generator at different engine revs. On engine idle speed the generator speed are at the very initial point of load characteristics of generator. At low revs XX and existing consumers the generator has not yet reached the point of regulation, and the tension that tries to maintain control in this mode is not achieved. Starting of current output is determined by the design of the generator and the residual voltage drop across the regulator. When replacing the regulator with residual voltage of about 1.2 - 1.3 V (typical figures of regulator at average price group) on regulators with voltage of 0.05 - 0.2 V (all brush VTN regulators, as well as some types of some other manufacturers) a start of current output is shifted to a frequency equivalences to 45 - 55 rev/min. Wherein the total current output increases by 2 - 3A at the beginning of the range and by 4 - 5A at medium and high speeds.

1.3 - When starting a car the voltage on the generator at medium speed has a value of 14.3 V, but after some time of work it reduces to 14,0 V. Is it possible to make a stable regulator!?

No! A charging must be in exact conformity with the type of battery (normal/"calcium"), as well as its temperature. The voltage should decrease with increasing of temperature. Therefore, the regulator has temperature compensation. Usually environment temperature is measuring; electrolyte temperature sensor is used in some cars. Different types of regulators from different manufacturers have different temperature compensation. In addition, regulators with high level of residual stress become strongly heat, and this temperature affects the accuracy of setting of voltage regulation. Therefore it is very important to use the regulators with low residual voltage - they have their own low heat emission and its decreasing of voltage occurs in more accurate accordance with the ambient temperature. 

1.4 - There is no charging on car MAZ. How to find the reason? Generator 3252 (BATE) has been removed and disassembled. A regulator 9333.3702-25 (VTN) was installed in it. How to check the regulator on the performance?  

The reason may be not in the regulator, or even not in the generator. It is necessary to do signals test on the car before removing the generator. First disconnect a battery for 20 seconds at least. After connecting, to check the voltage on this power cable and control input (pin "L" of the generator).  A voltage on the power output must be AB (24- 27V), on pin "L" should not be a voltage. Than turn on ignition (without starting the engine). A charge lamp AB (a voltage is from 0,2 to 2V at pin “L”) should light on the instrument panel.

Start the engine to increase engine RPM speed. A lamp should extinguish, and a voltage should be more than 20V at pin "L". If the lamp is not extinguished, it is possible to suspect non-functional parts of the generator, field winding, BVO or the regulator itself. 

The next best step is replacing the regulator to another one, and repeating the above measurements as a part of the generator on the car, or on the stand. When disassembling it is recommended to check the winding resistance (it must be in the range of 4.5 to 6.0Ω), as well as performance of BVO diodes (can be checked by tester in diode test mode).

    2.1. - I have bought the VTN ignition controller 131.3734-11. A start has been improved, but an engine still misfire on some revs.

This type of ignition controller is designed for the ignition system that meets the stated tolerances. A timer in some older cars is so disorderly, that microcontroller is not aware of signals that are beyond the estimated range, and strays.

You can install another type of ignition controller (eg type 90.3734), it will work correctly (or try to use the ignition controller from other manufacturers), but the car will still have a low power and high fuel consumption. It is recommended to align (or replace on the new one) the timer and its drive. Or find another possible problem.

2.2 - You have 4 types of ignition controllers for VAZ-2108(09) displayed on your web site. What is the difference between them?

The main two differences between it is the presence or absence of a signal on the tachometer on the contact #7 as well as various switching current (7.0 A or 7.5 A). The remaining differences can be seen by comparing the table settings for all four types.

3.1 - Recently I have installed your TPS sensor. The car immediately began to move smoothly, jerks when spinning up have disappeared, throttle response have increased. However, sometimes idle swim.

Contactless TPS sensors 3102.3855, 3202.3855, 3302.3855 - are electronic type of sensors, built on electronic circuit using a bridge sensor of magnetic field and microcontroller. Its current consumption is about 12 mA. Established sensors used on most vehicles are mechanical sensors of resistive type, with a current consumption of about 1 mA. In the vast majority of vehicles such difference in consumption of current does not matter and electronic sensors work without resource constraints, with much higher settings than mechanical. However, in some vehicles it is possible that due to defective circuits (for example, increased resistance of chain "0V") or because of the limitations of the current in the power supply ECU, electronic sensor may not work properly. As practice shows, to find a specific defect in such case is quite difficult (it requires high skills and special measurements). In this case it is recommended to return the sensor to the commercial network labeled "not suitable" and continue to use mechanical sensors with low current consumption.

3.2 - I have a car Daewoo Lanos 1.4 2008 year. I want to change your TPS sensor on the new one of your production. Which one to choose?

A car assembly plant has installed different throttle nodes at different times. There were installed 3202.3855 and 3302.3855 sensors on the Lanos 1.4. The easiest way is to take off your sensor and pay attention to the shape of the sensor's shaft and the direction of rotation. If the shaft is in the form of a truncated cone with flats, you need 3202.3855. If the shaft has a cruciform shape, the analogue is 3302.3855. It is also possible to compare the direction of rotation (see description of sensors.)

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