1.1 – I have a
standard for old cars voltage in the
network - about 13.9 V. I put a
«calcium battery ", which
requires a higher voltage, as well I
have fog lights and high-power car
stereo.
How can I increase the voltage on the
network?
Install a regulator with high
voltage control and with voltage regulation directly at
the output of the
generator 1702.3702-01 for VAZ2108 (09), 9111.3702 for
VAZ -2110 and others, in
accordance with the type of generator. Also, when using
the vehicle with long
pauses idling to provide the desired energy balance is
recommended to increase
the level of idling.
1.2 – I have
constantly underestimated voltage of the
vehicle network. Voltage, measured at the
battery or at the alternator output
is about 13 volts, and even less. Replacement of
voltage regulators does not
help.
It is
necessary to measure the output voltage of the generator
at different engine
revs. On engine idle speed the generator speed are at
the very initial point of
load characteristics of generator. At low revs XX and
existing consumers the generator
has not yet reached the point of regulation, and the
tension that tries to
maintain control in this mode is not achieved. Starting
of current output is
determined by the design of the generator and the
residual voltage drop across
the regulator. When replacing the regulator with
residual voltage of about 1.2
- 1.3 V (typical figures of regulator at average price
group) on regulators
with voltage of 0.05 - 0.2 V (all brush VTN regulators,
as well as some types
of some other manufacturers) a start of current output
is shifted to a
frequency equivalences to 45 - 55 rev/min. Wherein the
total current output
increases by 2 - 3A at the beginning of the range and by
4 - 5A at medium and
high speeds.
1.3 - When starting
a car the
voltage on the generator at medium speed has a
value of 14.3 V, but after some
time of work it reduces to 14,0 V. Is it
possible to make a stable regulator!?
No! A
charging must be in exact conformity with the type of
battery (normal/"calcium"), as
well as
its temperature. The voltage should decrease with
increasing of temperature.
Therefore, the regulator has temperature compensation.
Usually environment
temperature is measuring; electrolyte temperature sensor
is used in some cars. Different
types of regulators from different manufacturers have
different temperature compensation.
In addition, regulators with high level of residual
stress become strongly
heat, and this temperature affects the accuracy of
setting of voltage
regulation. Therefore it is very important to use the
regulators with low
residual voltage - they have their own low heat emission
and its decreasing of
voltage occurs in more accurate accordance with the
ambient temperature.
1.4 - There is no charging on car
MAZ. How to find the
reason? Generator 3252 (BATE) has been removed
and disassembled. A regulator 9333.3702-25
(VTN) was installed in it. How to check the
regulator on the performance?
The reason may be not
in the regulator, or even not in the generator. It is
necessary to do signals
test on the car before removing the generator. First
disconnect a battery for
20 seconds at least. After connecting, to check the
voltage on this power cable
and control input (pin "L" of the generator). A voltage on the power output
must be AB (24-
27V), on pin "L" should not be a voltage. Than turn on
ignition
(without starting the engine). A charge lamp AB (a
voltage is from 0,2 to 2V at pin “L”) should light
on the instrument panel.
Start the engine to increase
engine
RPM speed. A lamp should extinguish, and a voltage
should be more than 20V at
pin "L". If the lamp is not extinguished, it is possible
to suspect
non-functional parts of the generator, field winding,
BVO or the regulator
itself.
The next
best step is
replacing the regulator to another one, and repeating the
above measurements as
a part of the generator on the car, or on the stand. When
disassembling it is
recommended to check the winding resistance (it must be in
the range of 4.5 to
6.0Ω), as well as performance of BVO diodes (can be
checked by tester in diode
test mode).
2.1. - I have bought the VTN
ignition controller 131.3734-11. A start
has been improved, but an engine still
misfire on some revs.
This type of ignition controller
is
designed for the ignition system that meets the stated
tolerances. A timer in
some older cars is so disorderly, that microcontroller
is not aware of signals
that are beyond the estimated range, and strays.
You can install another type of
ignition controller (eg type 90.3734), it will work
correctly (or try to use
the ignition controller from other manufacturers), but
the car will still have
a low power and high fuel consumption. It is recommended
to align (or replace
on the new one) the timer and its drive. Or find another
possible problem.
2.2 - You have 4
types of ignition controllers for
VAZ-2108(09) displayed on your web site. What is
the difference between them?
The
main two differences between it is the presence or
absence of a signal on the
tachometer on the contact #7 as well as various
switching current (7.0 A or 7.5
A). The remaining differences can be seen by comparing
the table settings for
all four types.
3.1 -
Recently I have installed your TPS sensor. The
car immediately began to move
smoothly, jerks when spinning up have
disappeared, throttle response have
increased. However, sometimes idle swim.
Contactless
TPS sensors 3102.3855, 3202.3855, 3302.3855 - are
electronic type of sensors,
built on electronic circuit using a bridge sensor of
magnetic field and
microcontroller. Its current consumption is about 12 mA.
Established sensors
used on most vehicles are mechanical sensors of
resistive type, with a current
consumption of about 1 mA. In the vast majority of
vehicles such difference in
consumption of current does not matter and electronic
sensors work without
resource constraints, with much higher settings than
mechanical. However, in
some vehicles it is possible that due to defective
circuits (for example,
increased resistance of chain "0V") or because of the
limitations of
the current in the power supply ECU, electronic sensor
may not work properly. As
practice shows, to find a specific defect in such case
is quite difficult (it
requires high skills and special measurements). In this
case it is recommended
to return the sensor to the commercial network labeled
"not suitable"
and continue to use mechanical sensors with low current
consumption.
3.2 - I have a car
Daewoo Lanos 1.4 2008 year. I want to change
your TPS
sensor on the new one of your production. Which
one to choose?
A car assembly plant has installed
different throttle nodes at different times. There were
installed 3202.3855 and
3302.3855 sensors on the Lanos 1.4. The easiest way is
to take off your sensor
and pay attention to the shape of the sensor's shaft and
the direction of
rotation. If the shaft is in the form of a truncated
cone with flats, you need
3202.3855. If the shaft has a cruciform shape, the
analogue is 3302.3855. It is
also possible to compare the direction of rotation (see
description of
sensors.)
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